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HARRY D. HOLBROOK, OF UTIOA, NEV YORK.

SHOE.

SPECFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 545,160, dated August27, 1895.

Application tiled January 14, 1895. Serial No. 534,941. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that i, HARRY D. HoLnRooK, of Utica, in the county of Oneidaand State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvementsin Shoes and the Manufacture Thereof; and I do hereby declare that thefollowing is a full, clear, and exact description of the invention,which will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains tomake and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings,and to the letters and ii gu res of reference marked thereon, which formpart of this specification.

My invention relates to an improvement in shoes.

In the drawings which accompany and form a part of this specification,and in which similar letters and igures of reference refer tocorresponding parts in the several views, Figure l shows a top view ofthe insole ot' my shoe. Fig. 2 shows a bottom view of the insole. Fig. 3shows a partial top View of a modified form of construction. Fig. lshows a longitudinal section of the construction shown in Fig. 3. Fig.shows asection of the insole from the under side, showing the stitchying and arrangement of the several parts. Fig. 6 shows a section on A Bof Figi. Fig.

Zshows a cross-section of an insole of a modivlied form of construction.Fig. Sshows a section through the toe of a shoe constructed according tomy plan.

Referring to the reference letters and numbers in a more particulardescription of the shoe, l indicates the insole of my shoe, which asshown in Figs. 1, 2, 6, and 8, consists of a single sheet of leather orother material. On the under side of this sole, adjacent to the edgethereof, with the exception of the heel p0rtion, are secured the strips2 2 of material, preferably leather, by two rows of stitches a. and b,the row of stitches a. being as near to the outer edge of the strip asit is practicable to place them, while the row of stitches b isconsiderably removed from the inner edge of the strip 2. The inner edgeof the strip 2 is beveled olf, forming a pliable lip 2a. The upper 3 issewed to the insole l by the curved stitches e, passing through thelower edge of the insole, the edge ofthe upper 3, and the welt 5.Provision is made for receiving the edge of the upper and inner edge ofthe Welt in the corner or shoulder 6 under the insole and at the edge ofthe strip 2. The sole is secured to the projecting ed ges of the welt bystitches 8, and the edge of the welt and the sole are trimmed off, asshown in Fig. 8. in forming the stitches 4 the channel-clinch of thesewingmachine passes along under the pliable edge 2a of the strip,sewing ou the under side of the insole, and while the sewing is beingdone the pliable edge is turned out, as indicated in dotted lines inFig. 6. It Will be noted that the stitches i pass from a point inside ofthe rowot stitches b tothe outer edge of the insole, and thence throughthe upper and the welt. This stitching maybe done by rnachine,l whichforms a stitch substantially as shown at 4 in Fig. 5, and the shoe issewed on the last.

The form of the insole and welt after the Welt is sewed on and beforethe sole is applied is shown in Fig. 5, in which 5 is the body portionof the welt and 5 is the upturned edge through which the stitches arepassed. The space c between the inner sole and the outer sole may belled or partially filled with 1illing, or the sole may be rolled orpressed, so as to force the inner sole to the outer sole, coming incontact in the middle portion 0f the shoe, the inner sole being curvedto bring it to a position on the outer sole and the filling omitted, ifdesired.

In the construction shown in Fig. a cork or composition piece M is usedto furnish the body of the insole, and this is covered with a coveringN, 4of canvas orother suitable material, passing over the top andlapping under the edges of the piece M, and on the bottom is applied asecond piece o,of canvas or other suitable material, furnishing acomplete enl velope for the body M, and to this are sewed the strips 2 2in the same manner as heretofore described. The stitches are l passedthrough the body portion of the insole in the same manner as shown inFig. 8 with reference to the non composite sole. There a cork orcomposition sole, as M is, employed at the heel, I introduce aheel-piece between the body portion and the outer covering o, in whichvthe nails clinch in nailing the heel on the shoe.

In the manufacture of these shoes the outer edge of the strip 2 is knownas the shoulder,

from the stitches b, an upper, a. welt, stitches passing through thebody of the insole under the strips and through the rows of stitches a15 and I), the upper and the welt and the sole sewed to the welt,substantially as set forth.

In witness whereof I have affixed my signature in presence of twoWitnesses.

HARRY D. HOLBROOK.

WILLIAM DONNELLEY,

l Vitnesses:

PETER P. SMITH.

